
Your editor recently returned from a cooking course in France, where this post's title was a bit of significant wisdom about the importance of careful and creative presentation in cooking. The first day at the school, while jet lag was still intense and vivid, Chef Robert Ash made a tomato salad that is an excellent way to tear through some of the summer produce. Here's what he did, and what I did yesterday.
Take plenty of ripe tomatoes and cut them into thinnish slices -- say, a quarter inch. Lay them on a plate or tray, and salt them liberally. "Liberally" means to taste, of course, and for some people salt is a natural seasoning -- and for others, steeped in our wise culture of care around healthy food, it's kind of scary to actually USE salt on PURPOSE. Ash emphasized the value of salt used carefully in this case to aid the tomatoes in giving up their liquid and concentrating their flavor.
Over the next few hours, I poured off liquid every 15 minutes or so. Then I cut up some cherry tomatoes, more for color and contrast than any other reason. I took some of the farm's basil and shredded it with my fingers (lots of cooks feel that cutting basil with a knife damages its flavor) and scattered it on the tomatoes. I also happen to have fresh oregano on the back deck, so I put on some of that, and also snipped on some of the chives I have on the back deck as well. Don't get hung up on this; if you have the herbs, great, and if not, it's not the end of the world. The basil is the most important of all of them.
Then, I cut some mozzarella into stars with cookie cutters (my wife Carol's idea) and put the shapes on the salad. Finally I sprinkled on some olive oil and poured balsamic vinegar into a spray bottle, then sprayed a few shots over the salad. Done. Vegans will of course choose to omit the mozzarella.